I’ve written about my Dahon Folding Bike before. It’s the one that I configured as a city apartment bike (read more here). The Dahon is a fun bike to ride. With its tiny tires you feel like you’re on a kids bike. It has a three speed hub gear system, so it’s easy to use. And it has fenders and chain guards, so you don’t have to be outfitted in bicycling gear to ride it.

While I had previously outfitted it with a lighting system, etc, it was lacking a good way to carry stuff. It has a really nice rear rack — but the wheels are so small that you can’t use regular pannier bags. It needed something like a milk crate.

Trouble with milk crates is that they look like milk crates. And any attempt to make it look nicer simply resulting in a nicer looking milk crate. I’d have to build my own.

So, out come some 1×12 scrap boards, and some knowledge recently gained from a new Super Secret Project. Here is the core:

The front, angled parts, and sides are all 1×12 pine boards. The front is 6″, angled 4″, and sides 8″. These dimensions were chosen because (a) my scrap of wood was only 30″ long and (b) it just happens to be exactly the right size for my rack.

In this shot you can see the angle cuts:

This is where having a gigantic miter saw really paid off. I was able to make those 22.5 degree bevel cuts right on the Makita. You can also use a portable circular saw, a good straight edge, and a steady hand.

Why 22.5 degrees? Because if you cut your lumber equally you’ll make a hexagon. I wanted a hexagon-like shape for my box, since I didn’t want it to look like a cube. The other huge added benefit it that the angled parts allow my feet to clear — if I made a cube my my pedals/feet would have whacked into the box. Luckily, my aesthetic choice was also a good usability choice.

The sides were glued up and allowed to dry using a strap clamp to hold it in place (this was a big pain and the hardest part of the project).

If you look carefully in the above photo you can see that I also used small pieces (cut at 45 degree angles) as braces. Why 45 degrees? Because 45 + 22.5 + 22.5 = 90. Geometry in action. The braces are glued in and then bradded (using 2″ brads — thank goodness for my DeWalt nail gun).

Again, by lucky happenstance, my scrap lumber and it’s dimensions lead me to one very important conclusion: It’s ideally sized to hold a 6 pack of bottled beer. If you are going to build your own, make sure it can accommodate 6″ x 8″ x 10″ tall. Unless you drink from cans, then you can reduce the height.

For the back, I used a piece of scrap 5mm plywood held in place with brads. You can use 1x if you have it (I was out). The bottom is another piece of high-quality 1×12 that I’ve had around. It’s held in place with about eight 1 5/8″ deck screws. Make sure the bottom is fastened well — it’s the primary mounting point to the bike.

Now that I knew this would hold beer, or a picnic lunch, or both, it was important to add some insulation. Two reasons for this: (a) to keep stuff cool in the hot Texas summer and (b) to keep things from rattling around while I’m riding.

I had some spare garage door insulator lying around (it’s like silvered bubble swap) which would work perfectly:

The insulation on the sides is one piece, held in place with construction adhesive. The bottom is more insulation, but is NOT adhered to the bottom. It has to be removable so that you can bolt the box to the bike rack.

This being Austin, I knew that I couldn’t leave the box plain black. That would be too boring. So we finally put to use some of the many, many bottle caps we have collected:

The caps are hot glued to a piece of Kommerling Komacel. Komacel is a plastic material that is weatherproof, cuts like wood, and can be purchased in a variety of colors. It’s a great material to work with. We had a scrap of white, so I spray painted it matte black. The resulting panel is then mounted to the rear 5mm back using 4 machine screws and nuts.

You can see that the top is cut to mirror the shape of the box, has the edges rounded over, and then mounted with a single hinge. Since I was out of larger boards, I biscuited and glued up two 1×6 boards and then cut to shape. Insulation was also glued into place so that the entire box is insulated.

Next up, some designs for the side:

A nighttime test ride:

I’ll try and get some photos of how the box gets mounted to the rack, and some more of the top.

For the final touches, we’ll decorate the sides some more, and probably put a latch (perhaps magnetic) on the lid so it doesn’t bounce around. (I noticed a little movement in the top — mainly because I used a cheap leftover hinge. If you have one, use a piano hinge.)

Our prototype panel is above. We decided that the black background looked better than white.

It’s been busy. About a coop a week through most of March and April. And the IT work. So I’ve unfortunately not had a lot of time to blog. Ah well.

One think I’d like to mention: If you want to save your hearing, buy better tools.

You see, we’ve been gradually upgrading our shop from our first-time tools (like the Skil miter saw, Rockler HVLP sprayer, Arrow stapler) to something more production worthy (Makita miter, Earlex sprayer, DeWalt electric nailer). It’s been a gradual swap-out, as the cheaper tools have either failed, have started to fail, or could not longer support the strain we put on them.

What I’ve found is this: With each (big) upgrade we’ve had a big decrease in sound levels. The Makita saw, while far larger and more powerful than the Skil, is at least 1/2 the loudness. When our $120 Chinese special HVLP sprayer started dying, I went to an English made Earlex — and it’s about 1/3rd as loud as the cheapie. And so on.

The loudness is important for a couple of reasons. First, we have a home shop, and want to be respectful of our neighbors. We realize that hearing banging or cutting all day long is no fun. Second, the quieter it is, the less stressful it is. I find I can cut longer, with less aggravation, with the quieter saw. (Even though I’d use earplugs.) Sure, the saw is of higher quality and makes better cuts, but the decrease in noise seems to make cutting more enjoyable.

In general, I’m finding that a quieter tool is a better made tool. Better fit and finish. Higher quality parts. More attention to detail. My loudest tools are also my cheapest.

I removed my “old” scrap wood boxes from the sides of my cart, replacing them with some new “wings” for my Makita miter saw. Actually, more like re-purposing. I took the boxes apart and used them for the wings. They were 1×12 material, so gave me the size I wanted.

Here is the left-hand (feed) side:

A 24″ long 1×12 is bolted to the cart (just like the scrap boxes were) using a couple of 1/4″ bolts. To keep things strong and level, I added two 2×4s cut at 45 degree miters. They act as braces for the top. The work surface is another 1×12 standing on a couple of short 2×4s. The 2×4s, with some washers, bring the deck to exactly the same level as the saw.

If I had put the saw on a new deck, I wouldn’t have needed this more complicated setup. However, I was trying to avoid buying more lumber and wanted to re-use what I had on-hand.

Everything is pine, which isn’t exactly the most stable material, but it will do for now. I “finished” the top with a couple of layers of the ever-stinky Johnson’s Paste Wax.

I used the wing for all of my cuts — what a difference it makes! The extra support on the left side is amazingly helpful. And I really don’t lose any space — my scrap can fits right under the wing. This is great, as I can just toss odds and ends right in.

After finishing my cuts, I noticed that I could use some support on the right (out-feed) side. I’ve been playing around with this design:

On this side, I need it to drop / stow out of the way, because I have very little room in the shop (see band saw in right background). So, I attached the wing to the existing handle on the cart. Now I need a way to keep it in place while cutting (right now I’m using a little clamp, visible). Since this is just the out-feed, and I usually use 1×4s, this is a 1×6 piece of pine cut to 24″.

Update: Ye old saw is shifting around on my baker’s cart, throwing off the alignment (and height) of the side wings. Looks like I’m gonna have to build a new platform after all. Ah, well. I’ll make it out of MDF, which is a lot more stable (less likely to warp).

A couple of months ago I realized that our miter saw was on the way out. While the “old” (10 months) Skil saw did a good job, it just isn’t able to handle production work. It was getting sloppy on 45 degree miters — which was deadly to us, since our coops use those cuts extensively. Something like 64 miters and 48 bevels and dozens and dozens of straight cuts. In other words, our miter saw is really important.

I knew my upgrade would require a couple of things:

• Greater depth of cut. My little 10″ Skil could barely handle a 1×6.
• Greater height of cut. The Skil had trouble with 1×4s on edge.
• More accuracy. I need a tool that’s less likely to be sloppy.
• Something pro level which could handle production work.

After looking around, I decided to go with the brand new Makita LS1216L 12-Inch Dual Slide Compound Miter Saw.

Now, in typical fashion, I’m going from a $100 entry level saw to a $650 high-end beast. It’s kinda like moving from a Hyundai Accent to a BMW 6 Series. This side by side gives you an example:

The photo doesn’t give really great scale — the Makita is far bigger than the Skil. Mainly in depth, because it has a much bigger depth of cut. How much? Well, here is the Skil:

Realistically, the Skil can cut about 5 1/2″ — almost — at zero degrees. It’s a fixed 10″, so that’s pretty fair. (It’s not a fault of the saw — that’s just the limitation.)  Now look at the Makita:

That’s right — it will handle a 15″ cut — almost 3 times what my Skil could. This is approaching Radial Arm Saw territory (saws which, unfortunately, are rarely sold anymore). Why in the heck get such a reach when most of your stuff is 1×4 and 1×6?

Well, because we also make owl boxes and Leopold benches. And that’s 1×10, 2×10, and 2×12 material. Currently, I have to cut all of those free-hand with a circular saw. Which means cutting the angles with a Speed Square, which takes time. By having such an enormous depth, I can make a majority of my cuts on the miter saw — which is far faster and more accurate.

The table swings 52 degrees left and 60 right, which beats the 45 limits on the old saw. And it bevels in both directions (left and right), 45 degrees each way.  And notice the gigantic fences on this saw — it can cut up to 8″ crown molding. Now, I’m not planning on doing trim work, but it’s nice having the capacity.

Lucky for me, my little portable stand I made is just big enough to place the saw on:

With me in the photo you can get a better sense of scale. The saw is sitting on a 24″ x 18″ deck and it takes up that entire space.

Above, you can also see that the motor is set at a 45 degree angle — this keeps it away from your work and allows it to cut that tall molding. This is a godsend for me, as the motor assembly on my old Skil used to knock into the work all the time.

The motor has smooth start and a good electronic brake. It’s remarkably quiet — I’d say about half as loud at the old one! This was a VERY pleasant surprise for me, as the Skil is noisy (I had to wear earplugs and use only during the day). I can use this one in the evening (if need be) and feel less like a bad neighbor. The blade stops in probably 1/4 the time of the old saw. Just a few seconds.

My initial impressions are positive. The saw has a huge reach, is well built, quiet (for a power tool), and looks to be a fine addition to my shop. The true test will be tomorrow — when I make about 500 cuts.

Update #1

• My first runner up for this saw was a sliding Hitachi. I liked the feel of the Hitachi better than other brands in the store. This is a brand-new saw, so I couldn’t test it in-store first. However, the older / smaller models had good reviews, and I’ve been very happy with my Makita drills.
• It’s assembled in the USA. Being a US based manufacturer myself, I appreciate this.
• I’m going to re-rig my rolling cart so that my scrap storage bins act as “wings”. The saw comes with no external tables/supports.

Update #2

• Spent the morning making a new lead-in “wing” for the saw. My advice to miter saw owners? Make at least a lead-in wing — better yet, one on each side. I never realized how useful these are until I had them in place. Makes cutting a LOT easier — and you have a work surface right at saw height.
• Make lots of 45 miter and bevel cuts today. The tall fence makes bevel cuts a lot easier.
• With my new “wing” on the left, I was able to set up a temporary jig-like setup for cutting some of my door parts. This sped up the process a lot.
• An accurate laser is a wonderful thing. I could line up the laser to my tape, avoiding marking. Must faster cutting. The Makita laser is extremely accurate.
• The quick electric brake means I cut properly with this saw — I wait for the blade to stop, like I should.
• The lower noise is a godsend. So much more comfortable to work with the saw for longer periods of time.
• I’m going to install a Kreg measuring system on my left side, to make repeat production work easier.

There are three tools in my shop that I never thought I needed, but now find indispensable. The Band Saw, the HVLP Sprayer, and the Brad Nailer. Why are they so important to me? Because, in a production environment, every minute counts. Saving a minute here or there doesn’t sound like much — until you look back over a week and realize you shaved hours off of a build. I’ve talked about the Band Saw, so let’s look at the Brad Nailer.

A Brad Nailer is just that — a machine that nails brads (small nails). The most common range of brads is 5/8″ up to 2″. I’ve been looking at them for a while now, but haven’t pulled the trigger (so to speak) because of the complicated setup and the limited use in our shop.

Why complicated? Because most of the nail guns run off of air, so you need a compressor. A compressor means more noise in an already noisy shop. And, more importantly for me, another big current drain in an already underpowered shop (the whole house only has 60 amps coming in).

And it would be a limited use tool, since our coops use screws throughout. However, we had identified a couple of places (interior supports, temporary fixtures, ramps) which really didn’t need to use screws. In fact, screws were a big downside, as it takes a lot longer to fasten with them (drill hole with countersink, drive fastener — a two tool process).

So I was stuck. I knew I could use a nailer, but not enough to want me to hassle with air tools.

Luckily, while scanning through my tool blogs I saw something I was unaware of: The cordless brad nailer. Ah, ha! This could be the solution to my problem.

Unfortunately, I went looking for the brand the one guy mentioned (Senco) but couldn’t find good / consistent pricing on them, and most of the on-line shops were out of stock. Not a good sign. Fortunately, I found that DeWalt makes one. While I knew I’d have to pretty much pay list (DeWalt doesn’t allow much discounting), at least I could walk into Lowe’s and pick one up.

Now before I go much further, let me get this out of the way: This is a $300 nailer.

If you are a weekend warrior, don’t bother. If you already have air in your shop, don’t bother. If you need to sink something other than brads, don’t bother.

A finish carpenter? Get it. Install kitchens? Get it. Rapid assembly? Get it.

DEWALT DC608K 18-Volt 18 Gauge 2-Inch Brad Nailer Kit

Loading the gun is super easy. You slide a panel open and lay the brads in place. There are little grooves which the different sized brads lay in. This is NOT like loading a staple gun. It is infinitely better. You can change from 5/8″ brads to 2″ brads in the time it took me to write this sentence. I can’t tell you how much I love the simple easy loading mechanism.

You can run in single-shot mode, or “bump” — which is what I use when attaching 5mm panels to our coop doors. Bam, bam, bam, bam, bam. I can lay down 30 brads in under a minute. We use the single-shot mode when making our core frames — what used to be a 10 minute process of positioning, holding, drilling, fastening, is now down to maybe 2 minutes. It saves that much time.

But remember, this is a nailer, and a pro tool at that. So it’s big. See the battery pack on the bottom? That’s a standard 18V pack. It gives you an idea of how big the head is. And the head isn’t plastic — that’s metal up top. It’s heavy, about 8 pounds or so, but not horribly so. It’s a great tool for building biceps.

Remarkably, this big tool can get into some pretty tight spaces. And that’s when you really appreciate that it’s battery powered — no hoses to deal with! I climb inside the tight confines of a coop, bam-bam-bam-bam, done. I honestly don’t know how I lived without it.

It’s also quiet. Press against the work to rev up the flywheel inside (pretty quiet) and pull the trigger to sink the brad (quieter than my Arrow staplers). I’ll do a SSS video on how I use it.

Its limits? Well, it can only fire 18 gauge brads, from 5/8″ to 2″. So it’s very specific in what it does. But if you need to pin things into place, or attach finish work, or hold something in place while the glue dries, then it’s an excellent tool. I find myself looking for more uses for it — like knocking together suet feeders.

The executive summary: If you do production work and are sick of trying to use electric staple guns to fire brads, get one of these tools. It is big, heavy, and expensive, but I wouldn’t give up mine. It has saved us time and frustration.

Back in February I picked up a new saw for the shop. I already have two portable circulars, a miter / chop, saber, reciprocating, scroll…the list goes on. But let me say this: I should have gotten a band saw a LOT sooner.

It has quickly turned into my second most used power saw in the shop — it’s that handy. Need to rip through boards? Done. Re-sawing a board or rough lumber? Done. Curves. Done.

I especially like that I can do finer work — that I used to do on the scroll saw — without the frequent blade breaks or “flapping” caused by the scroll mechanism. And this is REALLY important if you want to cut plastics like acrylic. For any of you out there looking for the best way to cut small pieces of acrylic, I say this: Get a small band saw.

Now, remember that you’re not going to be able to do really fine work, like on the scroll. And you are limited in capacity, based on the “throat” of the tool — don’t think you can cut sheets of plywood with it. And it’s not good for sharp angled edges, like the miter saw, but it’s a fantastic utility saw that I go to all the time.

Since I was dipping my feet into the land of the Band Saw, and am limited in space, I wanted to get the smallest good quality one I could find. I ended up getting a 10″ Rikon (also branded as a Craftsman model) from Highland Woodworking. I like Highland (based out of Atlanta) because their prices are good and they ship quickly.

Rikon 10″ 10-305 Band Saw from Highland Woodworking

Stuff I like:

• An import, but well made.
• Heavy cast iron table.
• Easy to clean
• Ball bearings on blade guides.
• Good sized table.
• Does what you need it to to — quick cuts.
• Very nice looking.
• Heavyweight — doesn’t move much.

Stuff I don’t like:

• Underpowered at times. It has a smaller motor that gets bogged down at times. Slow feeds on wet wood are a requirement.
• Fence doesn’t get close enough in (for small rips) — I had to make an add-on fence.
• Miter gauge not included, but I bought one for some work. Handy to have, but not very useful. Too far from blade.
• Assembly guide a little confusing, but not too bad.
• Non standard blades harder to find locally, buy easy to get mail ordered.

Would I get another Rikon? Absolutely. If you are getting into Band Saws and don’t have a ton of space, this little bench top model is a great starter — or can augment your larger saws. In many ways I treat it like a scroll saw on steroids. Do I regret getting the smaller one? Nope. It fits in my shop great. Would I get a bigger (14″) one if I had the space? No question.

I have a little (4″) stamped Oxo “Chef’s” knife. I use it quite a lot, since it’s short and easy to handle. Good for working with small stuff, while still allowing you to chop (unlike a paring knife).

Like most cheaper knives, this one doesn’t have a full tang in the handle Here it what it looks like with the Oxo rubber grip yanked off:

Can you guess where the fatal design flaw is? If you guess “the hole” then you would be correct.

That hole is there for the Oxo red logo, and it is what holds the plastic tang to the rubber grip. It’s also a disaster waiting to happen, as it weakens the handle and allows water to seep in.

My best guess is that there has been a hairline crack in there a while, and water has gradually been eating away at the tiny bit of metal in there. Finally it gave way, resulting in a break — and a knife that felt like the handle was made of a hotdog.

My first thought was to drill out a hole and try using a cut-off aluminium nail as a replacement tang.

Well, I tried drilling the hole, but did it freehand. Meaning that the two didn’t line up, would never line up, and would result in no strength improvement. Oh well, time for more drastic measures.

Time to make my own handle:

Off to the mini lathe I went. I use this lathe for small scale wood turning. Stuff like pens, candle sticks, and — in this case — a round handle for a knife.

The first piece of wood was pretty, and smelled very nice, but was very prone to chipping out. It was also very short, meaning I didn’t have enough stock on either end to cut off once the rounding was complete. (Long story short: it’s a pain working with very short stock.)

After a while, and many wood chips later, I gave up and started with another type of (again, unknown) wood.

This one turned a lot better. Very little chipping. And it was longer, so I could cut off any excess once the lathe work was complete.  Here’s a closer shot, with some wax applied:

I also tapered down one end, which is not shown in the photos. Once the lathe work was complete, I cut off the ends and then drilled a hole for the blade (what remained of the tang). I then press-fit the knife blade into the new handle.

I’ve applied an oil based stain to the handle to protect it, and am now giving it a couple of layers of Johnson’s wax to help protect the wood from drying (from detergent). I’m not sure how long the press-fit will keep the blade tight. If it gets loose, I’ll probably fill the center with epoxy and see how that holds.

Why all this work for a cheap (<$10) knife? Well, like I said, it’s one of my favorite and most useful knives. And I’ve become a big fan of good stamped knives. Frankly, I’ve given up on expensive forged knives. I get better cuts out of $30 utility stamped knives than any of my forged stuff. Heresy, I know, but it’s the truth. Plus, I don’t feel quite so bad if I screw up a $30 knife. They are meant to be used, after all.

Another thought: It’s about weight. When I’m in the shop I use my little Makita 10.8 V drivers all the time — they are light, so you don’t feel fatigued holding them all day long. Same thing goes for knives. Why hold a 12 oz knife all day long, when an 8 oz works just as well? After all, the edge of the knife should be doing the cutting — not its bulk.

And there is a personal reason why I want to keep this little knife around. Evelyn and I bought it when we lived with her parents — right when we had everything boxed and were waiting for their house to close before heading to Puerto Rico. So, it reminds me of those times. Trying to make little meals in their basement with only the fewest of supplies.

In preparation for the upcoming Austin Funky Chicken Coop Tour, Evelyn has been working on Stencil Screening some T-Shirts. Here is one of the prototypes:

Stencil Screening is similar to Silk Screening, but easier. You cut out a stencil from a thick piece of flexible plastic, then use a roller to roll on the paint. It’s not as accurate as silk screening, and it’s harder to do multiple colors, but it requires little or no equipment — though a good dose of patience is required to cut the stencil.

Here is Evelyn modeling her new shirt:

There are a number of tool surfaces in our shop made of cast iron. Our Scroll Saw, the Band Saw, and the Drill Press tables are all made of iron. While it makes for very strong and stable tables, the downside is rusting.

In particular, our Dremel Scroll Saw table was turning into a mess. It has some water stains — when I used it as a coaster. And it had some normal stains from where your palms rest. (The sweat and the oils get to the metal.)

I looked around for ways to clean up the tool tables. As usual, there is a LOT of conflicting information. So, let’s cut to the quick: These are the four things you need to keep your cast iron tool surfaces in great shape.

You need:

1. A 3M  Scotchbrite pad (the green ones).
2. A can of WD40.
3. Some Formula 409 All Purpose cleaner.
4. A one pound can of Johnson Paste Wax.

The Paste Wax is probably going to be the only item you’ll have a hard time finding. We could not find it at Target or Lowe’s. It was eventually found in a little 1960’s style mini grocery store near our house. It will set up back about $6.

Also have a good supply of paper towels on hand.

The process:

• Spray down the iron surface with the WD40. Scrub it with the Scotchbrite pad. You’ll start seeing a dark gray/black slurry of muck and WD40.
• Wipe down with clean paper towels.
• Repeat the above two steps until the cast iron surface is gleaming. It takes a couple of times, but you should see a dramatic improvement.

Once the surface is cleaned, it’s time to degrease and seal it.

• Spray down the cast iron surface with some 409.
• Wipe down with clean paper towels.
• Repeat the above two steps until the paper towels are clean. (Not picking up more WD40 / dirt.)

At this point the table is clean, but is unprotected. It must be treated or it will rust.

• Using a clean paper towel, apply some Johnson Paste Wax to the cast iron surface.
• Work the wax into the iron, gradually building up a nice layer of wax. Make sure you work it into the surface well. Don’t miss any spots.

Keep in mind that Paste Wax stinks of naptha. You’ll probably gag yourself after a short time, between the WD40 and the wax. It’s a good idea to wear an organic (activated charcoal) mask while doing this work.

You’re done. Depending on how often you use the tools, you may have to repeat the process once a month.

Important points: We use wax because it provides a smooth protective surface. Perhaps more importantly, it won’t damage the pieces you are working on. If any wax gets into your workpieces you can easily sand it off. This can not be said for silicon based products. Don’t use silicon on surfaces which will touch wood! It’s very difficult to sand it out of wood.

Additional uses: I use the wax all over. I coat the sole / base plate of my portable circular saw. I seal my wooden router table. I apply it to the tops of shop stools. It’s a great “old fashioned” material that still works wonders. Just get over the smell and you’ll be fine.

Important: This should ONLY be done to shop tables / tools. Do NOT clean cast iron cooking equipment this way! In an ideal situation, cast iron pans should never touch water. They should be cleaned with salt and paper towels. Again, do NOT use WD40 or Paste Wax on cooking surfaces! You WILL get sick!

I recently picked up a set of Incra rulers along with one of their protractors. These are very accurate measuring devices for woodworking. The protractor is in 1/2 degrees!

The problem is that they are thin and flexible, and need to be safely stowed away. My solution? A scrap wood Incra Ruler Holder:

I used a scrap piece of 3/8″ thick plywood, about 8 inches across and 20 inches tall. I put two scraps along the top part (held with screws) for the Protractor and T-Ruler. There is also a lip at the bottom to hold the other rulers.

When I was testing it I found that the Protractor and T-Ruler (which both have big aluminium stops) held fine, but the straight ruler wanted to fall. So I did two things. First, I put a scrap toward the bottom back of the unit, so it is angled from the wall. The incline keeps things from falling off. Second, I cut up an old credit card sized magnet and glued it to where the rulers would be placed. Those are the black strips you see.

Here is the end result:

At the top you have the protractor, below it the T Rule. On the left is the standard marking rule and on the right is the bend rule (90 degree ruler). The rulers are 12″ long.

Now I have a nice, safe, easy to access place for my Incra Rulers. I think it’s a wise investment for $100 worth of American made measuring tools.