This baby shark was out to get me. I see why you were having a grand old time — not a lot of room, and they solder the darn board in place (to the battery pickups). I’d pull the batteries before working on it (I didn’t and have played the song about 100 times). Plus, since the B+ is soldered at the battery pickup, you risk overheating it, unless you’re quick.
One thing I did notice is that the device’s switching circuit is extremely sensitive. Just tapping the male jack will trigger it. (Like a low tech capacitive sensor.)
I do believe the most time was spent trying to get the case screws back in place. I pulled out my handy Fun-Tak to help hold the screw (even with a magnetic screwdriver). Play Dough, Clay, etc. Anything that gives a little grip.
Got two more XAC analog sticks out the door for xmas. These use the JoyCon style replacement stick, as the user needed smaller and less tension. Pro Micro/Leo inside. Code & models in github.
Code and SCAD are working and posted for the Pseudolog converter.
Takes 4 switch inputs (ex. joystick u/d/l/r) and converts to pseudo analog joystick (the longer you hold, the more it swings to limits). Sensitivity adjusted by slide pot on top. Acts like a USB stick on the XAC.
The wiring is a little patchwork, as I changed my mind mid-soldering. Basically, jacks and pot go to Analog inputs of Pro Micro. Pot and jacks supplied with VCC. Full reading (1023) used to trigger. I used Analog inputs on purpose — so that I can use this for other projects.
I threw in a NeoPixel, because, why not? I’ve not coded the pixel yet.
For those doing toy mods (like adding a switch) — I’ve had good luck with these. 10 inches long. Leads are already stripped and tinned — and no mesh shield to get in the way. $14 for a pack of 10.
Found them on Amazon. Look for: Fancasee (10 Pack) Replacement 3.5mm Female Jack to Bare Wire Open End TS 2 Pole Mono 1/8″ 3.5mm Jack Plug Connector.