A word of warning: The Joycon replacement sticks are more difficult to work with. They use small (0.5mm) carbon leads and require a connector and breakout board. I’ve yet to find an easily available breakout. Send me a note if you’re interesting in learning more.
Why The JoyCon Stick? A person I’m working with needed a lighter touch stick. The easily found “PS2” style sticks are too stiff. The stick works very well, but, boy, is it a pain to wire up.
So, I’ve been following a thread on the ATMakers FB page about a Switched Bubble Machine. Lots of great info for a maker like me.
The latched and/or timed switches appear to have been around for quite some time. Me being me, I felt the solutions need to be revisited. During my research, two things kept popping up: cost and features.
So, I’ve got a working prototype which has all the features that I’ve seen so far (except machine learning–which is an excellent idea). Jack for input, another for output. Both 3.5mm-1/8″. Adjustment for duration and modes (passthru, timed, latched). User feedback, both visual and audio. Compact. And it runs on 2 AA batteries (and can run on 4, for extended use).
For the users: What features would you like to see in a smarter timed switch?
For the techies, it’s got a QT PY samd21. All parts sourced from Amazon or electronics suppliers (digikey, mouser, allied, etc). All current, and available, production parts.
To those who’ve been following the adventures of the custom JoyCon style stick: They arrived safe-and-sound. I had a Zoom call with the gamer on Wednesday and they are working for him! He’s lost more strength in his thumbs, so is using the stick with his big toes. We’re now looking at more toe mounted options, along with some thumb-mounted devices which only require movement, not holding a stick. Thanks to all who contributed to get this out the door before Christmas!
Newest version of Joycon-style stick posted (SCAD, STLs, and INO). Tested with the XBOX Adaptive Controller (XAC). Connects via USB port on side and acts as analog stick (either L or R, depending on what port you plug into). Files posted at: https://github.com/nelsonii/joycon
Big Thanks also go out to those who helped debug my connection problems (stick to board) — 90% of the problems were related to that part. Once I had solid connections, I had solid readings (no floating). The de-soldered USB board idea has been the best bet (barring custom PCBs). A custom PCB would save a lot of headache, but that is for another time.